A Maryland deli is serving up towering sandwiches and housemade pastrami in its new Foggy Bottom location.
Mikey and Mel’s Famous Deli, which is based in Fulton, Maryland, and has garnered legions of loyal patrons, made its first foray into the District with the Jan. 3 opening of its second location on the corner of 19th and L streets — just a 10 minute walk from campus. Owned by brothers Aaron and Harley Magden and named after their dad and grandfather, Mikey and Mel’s is known for its massive, “overstuffed” sandwiches and cured meats.
My friend and I braved the February chill last weekend to warm up in the cheerful delicatessen, where butter-yellow walls and black-and-white photographs created an inviting atmosphere. The large corner storefront has ample seating, from countertops to booths to standard tables. Unlike traditional hole-in-the-wall delis that focus purely on the food — like GW Deli — Mikey and Mel’s leans into its aesthetic appeal with sleek counters, exposed lighting fixtures and a striking “Delicatessen” marquee sign that looks like it could light up a Broadway theater.
As we stepped inside, a waitress greeted us with a warm smile and a cheerful “Welcome to Mikey and Mel’s!” There was a bit of a line for the ordering kiosks — the only way to place an order, as there’s no live, over-the-counter ordering like in a more traditional deli. After about 10 minutes we reached the front of the line and chose our dishes.
I opted for the District Cheesesteak ($19.95) with a side of homemade potato salad, while my friend went for a Broccoli and Cheddar Knish ($7.95). All specialty sandwiches come with a complimentary side of your choice: potato salad, coleslaw, macaroni salad, fresh fruit or potato chips. If you’re willing to splurge, you could upgrade to a potato latke (+$1.50), fresh-cut fries (+$2), sweet potato fries (+$3) or onion rings (+$2.50). But one surcharge on the menu stood out: the deli charges $2.50 if you want your sandwich cut in half, which seemed a bit excessive for a place already on the pricier side.
After placing our orders, we waited at our table for about 15 minutes before a waiter delivered our food. The restaurant was warm and bustling, with a lively energy that leaned toward the noisy side. Between the constant hum of conversation, the background music — a mix of pop and classic rock — and the frequent ‘dinging’ of the kiosks signaling new orders, it was a bit chaotic. Then again, it was the lunch rush.
Near our half-booth, a neon green and yellow sign labeled “Aaron’s World Famous Pickle Bar” hovered over a salad bar filled with eight varieties of pickled cucumbers — all complimentary. With such high praise, I had to try them.
I grabbed a plate of kosher dill and horseradish pickles. The kosher dill spears delivered a classic crisp, salty and juicy taste, while the horseradish coins were subtly sweet, slightly spicy and lingered on the tongue in the best way. The pickles certainly lived up to their “world famous” reputation.
Just as I was going to go for a second round of pickles, our food arrived. They weren’t kidding about “overstuffed.” My sandwich was massive and filled to the brim with meat and cheese. My friend’s knish was equally generous, nearly the size of her fist.
The District Cheesesteak was rich, salty and flavorful. Packed into a warm sub roll, the cheesesteak’s filling included tender, juicy shavings of housemade pastrami griddled with red onion and green peppers and your choice of melted cheese (I opted for muenster). The pastrami had a deep, smoky flavor, balanced by the sweetness of the lightly caramelized onions and the slight bitterness of the peppers. The cheese rounded everything out, adding a creamy saltiness that made each bite indulgent. I had about half before tapping out and packing the rest in a to-go box for later. My eyes were definitely bigger than my stomach.
While my main course was delicious, my potato salad left more to be desired. Served slightly warm, it consisted of large, mealy chunks of potato mixed with diced red onion and shavings of carrot. Overall, the mayo-based side was a bit one-note and lacked seasoning. I would have welcomed some vinegar to cut through the heaviness. Or at the very least a sprinkle of salt.
My friend did enjoy her knish, also served warm and filled to the brim with broccoli florets and cheddar. She noted that the sharp cheddar complemented the mild, slightly sweet broccoli well, though the texture was a bit too mushy for her liking.
I am a bit undecided on whether I would return to Mikey and Mel’s. The District Cheesesteak was fantastic, although I’d pick a different side next time. However, I’m not sure I could justify paying $25 for one sandwich after tax and tip, when the GW Deli is right on campus and serves up great sandwiches at a fraction of the cost. Maybe I’ll return to Mikey and Mel’s for a parent’s weekend brunch. But for now, I’ll take my $8.50 pastrami sandwich on G Street using GWorld.
