This post was written by Hatchet food columnist Scott Figatner.
Masala Art
4441-B Wisconsin Ave., NW
My first time at Masala Art, I strutted past vacant tables down to the reception desk, only to hear a disappointing “we’re closed” from the host.
But I quickly forgot all about that first experience at my most recent visit to the restaurant.
As an appetizer, my friends and I emptied a basket of the $3.25 famous Rock Salt & Cilantro Nan, which was both the crispiest and airiest I have ever had. Blistered, bubbly and browned, this nan is best eaten upside down to really taste the cilantro flavor.
Pani Poori, crispy-shelled, hollow puff treats, are available for $4.50. The delectable Indian street foods or “chaat” can be stuffed with diced potatoes, chickpeas and chutneys. My advice is to eat them in one bite or you will be wearing them.
Although the substantial wait time had left my friend and I staring at each other with eyes glazing over in hunger, the food succeeded in bringing us back to life. The rich and spicy chicken tikka masala, a Punjabi dish, was one of the best I ever tasted. What made this $13.95 dish unique was a hint of smokiness and a peppery kick.
Atul Bhola, manager of Masala Art, said the chef makes this curry dish by marinating chicken cubes in yogurt and spices for 12 hours and cooking them in a toasty tandoor, a cylindrical clay oven. The chef completes the process by simmering the chicken in a sauce made with yogurt, honey, tomatoes and spices.
Although the chicken tasted freshly cooked, my only critique is that it needed longer marinating time in the sauce itself. The spice-laced yogurt sauce should permeate the chicken with flavor and infuse it with a bright red-orange ring.
But the menu offers a variety of tasty options, even for vegetarians. The Paneer Till Tikka, $11.75, could trump some of the best meat dishes. The paneer, a fresh curd cheese, has flawlessly singed edges from the tandoor, and is served on a skewer with vegetables and basil paste. The lentil sauce that accompanies the paneer has just the right amount of heat and richness.
Though he withheld a few ingredients, Bhola said the paneer is marinated in yogurt, ginger, garlic and spices, slathered with a basil paste and charred in the tandoor just before service.
The restaurant impresses with dishes that show both depth and variety. With a truly satisfying selection, Masala Art lives up to its name, which is appropriately devoted to the art of blending spices.
Days later, the taste of the spices still lingers on my tongue, and my mind occasionally wanders to thoughts of creamy curries.
