Living in South America, I’ve already had a fair share of strange experiences. For instance, the other day I almost hit a horse that darted across the dirt road while riding to school on my moped, I regularly see five-year-olds wielding machetes and the crazy but lovable gardener at my house has been known to shoot stray cats at night for kicks. But I would not have guessed that the U.S. Embassy would be the setting for by far the strangest experience of this trip to date.
Since the school I’m teaching at is well-known within Paraguay, the U.S. ambassador extended us an invitation to his annual Independence Day bash at his residence in Asunción – Paraguay’s capital city. For some background, the ambassador is somewhat of a colorful character. During his post, he discovered that his true calling was recording Paraguayan folk songs in Guarani (I believe his side of the story was that the idea came to him in a dream), so he recorded and released a C.D. and now entertains fans with concerts when not busy with diplomatic policy. Keep in mind that he is not Paraguayan – he’s from New Jersey.
This party was not your traditional backyard, Fourth of July barbecue. For one thing, it was on July 1- and it was Mardi Gras-themed. After making the hour and a half trip to Asunción, walking into the ambassador’s residence felt like walking into the Twilight Zone. Outside the gates, little children were barefoot in the streets begging for change, but inside, a live jazz band was blaring Frank Sinatra songs, oversized Mardi Gras masks read “I love USA” painted on in glitter, waiters walked around offering chicken wings and empanadas, and Americans and Paraguayans alike were decked out in elaborate costumes ranging from Superman to a giant pumpkin. The Ambassador himself was unrecognizable in his full-on Benjamin Franklin outfit complete with a kite, tearing up the dance floor to a Grammy-winning Cajun band imported direct from New Orleans.
To make things even stranger, the party seemed to have sold it’s soul to American corporations. Signs and tents from sponsors ranging from McDonald’s to Dodge were among the patriotic decor. Pizza Hut was even on hand to give out personal pizzas and Budweiser girls in tight, red jumpsuits handed out key chains and bottles of beer. Apparently U.S. tax dollars weren’t enough to cover the ambassador’s bill. The rest of the party’s cuisine ranged from Cajun to Chinese, and a giant American flag made out of cupcakes to top it all off.
The ambassador took the stage and made a speech in Spanish and then lip-synced to one of his Paraguayan hits. Then he read a statement issued by the White House, wishing Americans all over the world a happy Independence Day. As clich and recycled as the statement was, hearing it in my little American enclave in Paraguay, complete with corporate sponsors, eccentric guests and a melting pot of themed party-ware, actually made me a little homesick. Although it was far from a traditional Fourth of July celebration, the party pretty accurately summed up what the U.S. is all about.
